Huatulco

   In the late 1960's the Mexican government began an ambitious tourism development strategy. The goal was to identify new beach resort sites that possessed certain ideal characteristics, and then build integrated master-planned resorts.
   The plan hoped not only to diversify the Mexican economy but also to improve living standards in "frontier" regions of Mexico. A detailed search of Mexico's 9,600 km of coast eventually led researchers to the remote and undeveloped shore of southern Mexico. Here they honed in on a 35- kilometer stretch of pristine bays, coves and inlets known as Bahias de Huatulco - the bays of Huatulco (wah-TOOL-co).
   The area's transformation into a worldclass resort has become the federal government's most ambitious tourism project, and is proceeding under the guise of a carefully balanced master plan. In fact, Huatulco is the hemisphere's first "ecotourism" resort. The majority of the project's approximately 52,000 acres (over 40,000) are to be held as ecological preserves. In 1998 President Ernesto Zedillo converted most of Huatulco's preserves into an enormous national park - one of the few in the world protecting both land and marine wildlife. When the resort is completed (in the year 2020), Huatulco will possess over 16,000 hotel rooms, host 1 million annual visitors, and generate nearly one-quarter of Oaxaca's revenue.
   Today these projections seem a distant dream, for Huatulco is one of Mexico's most relaxed destinations. The centerpiece of Huatulco's appeal is a series of nine bays, encompassing 36 beaches and numerous inlets and coves, each with its own unique setting and ecology. All are noted for their lovely beaches of golden sand and crystal clear water, but remain pleasantly primitive, sometimes accessible only by boat. Of the nine bays targeted for development, today six are "tourist ready" with visitor facilities.

   Tangolunda Bay is the grandest of Huatulco's bays and most suited to upscale international visitors. Seven modern resorts (including this hemisphere's largest Club Med) are complimented by an 18-hole golf course, a full assortment of water sports, two shopping areas, several restaurants, and five lovely beaches.
   The second developed area is the Bay of Santa Cruz and the village of Santa Cruz Huatulco. The bay is home to a marina (from which cruises of the area's nine bays depart) and one of the area's main settlements. Facing the marina is Santa Cruz, an attractive village that sprang to life in the late 1980's. The village's shady main square is surrounded by shops, including a good outdoor artisans market, restaurants and bars. Several popular 4-star hotels are here. A short distance away is popular Playa Santa Cruz, home to Huatulco's cruise dock (visited by 50-60 cruises per year), and La Entrega and Yerbabuena are nearby beaches accessible by boat or by car.
   Chahue (CHAH-way), the bay between Tangolunda and Santa Cruz, is the area's largest with three long stretches of sandy beach. The bay will be home to several new developments. A new marina is under construction. There are currently three hotels open on this bay. About a mile inland is the charming city of La Crucecita (population 4,000). This is predominantly a "workers city," though it has several tourist-class restaurants, bars, shops selling Oaxacan crafts, a good municipal market, a half dozen charming hotels, and one of Mexico's prettiest main squares. The new church features the world's largest image of the Virgin of Guadalupe on its dome.
   Located in the rugged and colorful State of Oaxaca, Huatulco's selection for resort development was aided by its proximity to the state's capital, the magical City of Oaxaca. Only 40 minutes by scheduled commercial aircraft, Oaxaca is one of Mexico's most endearing towns. Its awesome archaeological sites, colorful markets, rich colonial architecture and fascinating native cultures make a perfect match for Huatulco's coastal attractions. Huatulco is also an excellent gateway for exploring the villages of Puerto Escondido and Puerto Angel, two of Oaxaca's more rustic coastal gems.
   Huatulco, too, is rich with ancient Indian history. It was first inhabited in pre-Hispanic times by the coastal Tututepec tribe. Zapotec, Mixtec and Aztec merchants established an important trade route through the region, and the village of Santa Maria Huatulco developed. Following the Conquest, the coastal village of Santa Cruz Huatulco served as a harbor and shipyard for the Spaniards trading along the Pacific coast.
   However, the establishment of the Acapulco- Orient trade route in 1560 led to an immediate decline in Huatulco's development. The settlement was raided by English pirates in the late 16th century, and the area's villages lingered for centuries as sleepy outposts.
   At present Huatulco's dining, shopping and nightlife are just emerging. Sightseeing includes popular bay tours, ecological excursions (including river rafting, mountain biking, bird watching, and ATV tours), beach combing, and horseback riding. The sports scene offers tennis, every imaginable water sport, including excellent deep sea fishing and reef diving, and golf at an excellent 18-hole seaside course. Huatulco offers some of the clearest water on Mexico's Pacific coast, and there are some great snorkeling spots. The area touts that hard-to-find combination of deluxe facilities and an unspoiled natural setting. All this, plus the allure of the nearby City of Oaxaca, makes Huatulco an enticing destination for both novice and experienced Mexico travelers.